I’ve been fascinated with automatic chicken coop doors. My current auto coop door closer has been working like a champ for months. I received a lot of great replies to that thread, and one of them was from a visitor named Bob. I was so impressed with his design and pictures I asked him if I could post his comments and pictures as an article here. I’m SUPER glad he agreed. So, below are his words:
Here is the automatic door I built with an automatic car antenna (click the image to see it in action). I chose the antenna method because it has a built in stop when it reaches its end in both directions. This eliminates the need of more circuitry to control “run timeâ€.
Mine runs off a little 12v lawn tractor battery. The battery is kept up to charge with a “float†charger. The door opens and closes with a photo light sensor. The reason for the battery is so that a power failure will not cause a problem. The reason for the light sensor is so that the length of daylight does not need to be constantly adjusted on a timer. BUT, you can simplify things and use an ordinary appliance timer plugged into an AC outlet, and then use a 12v DC power supply to power the antenna.
This is just one way to use an automatic car antenna. With some imagination you could probably come up with many more designs.
As you can see the antenna is mounted upside down. The door is made from an 1\8″ ALUMINUM panel. It is light in weight but very strong. The door channels are 1/4″. I have a 3″ spacer connected to the tip of the antenna to the door. You can measure the distance you need to determine the spacing length. I used a piece of aluminum stock and tapped each side to mount it. The side on the antenna tip has a hole for the tip to set in, and then I used the tapped hole as a “set screw†to keep the tip in place. I have my tip connected towards the bottom of the door. This makes the length of the door channel a bit shorter in order to match the up and down stroke of the antenna.
Be sure to carefully measure the lengths and travel distances needed for the antenna to move up and down freely. I have heard of some discussion that the travel distance does not need to be exact because the antenna’s “auto stop†feature will sense the end travel and the motor will time out. But that will be up to you.
If you do not have some aluminum sheeting lying around, you can find some at Lowe’s or etc. Aluminum can be easily cut with your skill saw. Just make sure you have a carbide blade and wear safety goggles. Even some type of plastic sheet would work. Just keep it light and strong.
The door channels can be purchased also at Lowe’s or Home Depot.
The best price for the antenna was on-line at Beachaudio.com, but they may be out of stock. Just search the web for the least expensive “automatic antennaâ€. Mine was about $35.00. The antenna MUST only have three wires. (Beware of the non automatic antennas that require the user to “toggle†the antenna up and down manually). Two wires connect directly to your power source. The other wire that is not black or red, is the “up down†trigger. That is the wire that you connect to the timer or sensor circuit.
If you go with the 12V battery, the float charger can be bought at Harbor Freight Tools for under $10.00.
I have updated this article to mention that the there may be a better control system other than the night/daylight sensor that is described below. I have used this sensor for about a year. However, just recently I noticed that the control unit was sometimes “confused†in the mornings and would make the antenna move up and down erratically. Not fun for the chickens. It was mainly due to setting the photocell too sensitive in order to stay open at night as long as possible. Please be sure to read the later posts regarding an Intermatic ST01C timer. This timer is very unique because it does not rely on household current to operate. It is also very unique because it has an “astronomical†feature which updates the internal clock when dusk and dawn occurs in your region. It is powered by a 2 year lithium battery. Below is the night/daylight photocell circuit, if you decide to want to experiment with it.
Here is the circuit. Its pretty simple and self explanatory and would require someone that has done a little soldering in the past.
The only thing that is really not explained is the CDS photocell. One could try different types to see which works best. The one I ended up using was from a photocell variety package purchased from Radio Shack.
If you decide to go with the photocell circuit, the antenna’s power wires (red and black) must be always connected to the 12vdc power source and not be controlled by the photocell circuit.
A few thumbnails you can click on for the control box, door channel, battery / charger, photocell
On the other side of the box I have a little slider switch that makes the door close manually.
The tip spacer/connector will probably be the hardest part for a lot of people to figure out to. There plenty of ways to get that done. I had a piece of an aluminum rod that was solid. I drilled and tapped each side of it. There is a screw going through the outside of the door to one side of the rod. I drilled a hole in the rod for the antenna tip to sit in. The screw on that side of the rod is a set screw that keeps the tip in place.
(Rob Note: A huge thanks to Bob for this great design, pics and wrtieup and for letting me post it on the site. I know we are both looking forward to reading some of your comments!)
Could I get a description or photo please of how to rig up the RF choke with the ST01C? I’ve ordered the timer from a US ebay seller after not being able to find an electrical wholesaler locally who’d even heard of Intermatic!
And any advice on how powerful a solar panel to use would be appreciated…
Assuming one up, one down per day and negligible else, that’s say 1 minute at say 4Amps, ~0.08Ah. Call it 0.1Ah. Three hours of effective sunlight (winter, foggy morning/cloudy day) at 50mA would be 0.15Ah – enough to make up for the losses in charging. 50mA at 12V = 0.6W solar panel needed?
Funny thing is that a 5W panel is a very similar price to the 30-100mA type “car battery maintainer” type panels. Any lessons already learnt on this would be appreciated.
Leon
Leon,
I’m sure that Chris will chime in on the details of what Intermatic sent him on chokes. But the connection is quite simple. It is in series with the wire that goes to the antenna’s trigger. However, I took it one more step. I figure that I might as well protect the both the input and the output of the timer as well. I am a Ham radio operator and my antenna system is very near the coop. From past experiences when it was near my house, my RF signal can have the capability to “get into things”.
If you have a Radio Shack store near by, you can get a couple of chokes for $1.39 each. Here is a link. You should be able to find them easily from other sources as well.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103978
On the ST01 timer, you will only be dealing with two wires.The black and blue. Because it is basically a simple on off switch, it does not matter which color goes where. So if you choose to use RF choke perfection, simply place them in series directly on the switch’s wires.
As far as your charging calculations go, looks like you got the math down good. But I’m weak when it comes to solar panel expectations. I will pose your question to my Ham radio electronic gurus.
I will repond more in a day or two, but basically the choke should be put as close to the motor to be as effective as possible,also, not knowing the exacts about this choke, because it is sealed in a heat tape set up, it appears to be several things on a small pc board, they also said it would work with ac or dc and any voltage you were using at the motor.
I am actually traveling at the moment, hense the delay in response, but after arriving back home in a few days I will check the choke closer and perhaps post some pics…………. Chris
Hey Chris,
Hope its a pleasure trip, not that “W” word 🙂
Anyway, from an electronics viewpoint and rule, the most efficient place to install a choke or any suppression device is as close as possible to the device that you are protecting. But if you are just isolating the timer from the motor, I would see no harm with placing it near the motor. BUT, if you want to protect the timer from ANY and ALL stray RFI that may get induced into the timer (strong radio waves or other noise transmitted RF) you are always better off to place the suppression device right at the device you want to protect (the timer). I could get into more detail but I will stop here 🙂
Bob
Hi Guys,
Well I rigged up the ST01C with an inductor from my parts bin – about 1.5mm varnished copper wire wrapped maybe 30-40 times round an iron ring. Soldered it to the black lead from the timer and it definitely didn’t do the trick! I had the timer resetting every single time the antenna pulled closed.
Chris, that RadioShack unit you linked me to – is that what you’re using?? Doesn’t look like it’ll take 3 or 4A of current for 10-20s while the door moves.
Cheers,
Leon
Hi Leon,
I sent you the link to the Radio Shack chokes.
I think you are connecting things incorrectly. I say that because you are concerned about the 3- 4 amps. This tells me that you may have the timer switching the antenna’s motor, not the the trigger? You need to connect the antenna’s red and black leads DIRECTLY to your power source and leave it there. The only thing that the timer controls is the antenna’s trigger circuit. This requires micro amps to do. Therefore a choke as the one in the RS link will be more than large enough.
Bob
Thanks Bob. I think I’ve got it wired properly, but yes, I was still (strangely) thinking that I needed to switch the 3-4A with the timer rather than just the high/low sense wire. Cheers!
Leon
which type of antenna is used in this system, where we can get it
Hi Dinu,
Almost any kind of car antenna that uses three wires – one positive and one negative for the 12V power supply from a battery, and a third “sense” wire that goes to +12V when you turn on your car radio and tells the antenna to go up. This third wire is connected to the positive terminal of your chicken coop battery via the Intermatic ST01C timer.
I got my antenna from an auto wreckers. You can also buy them new from a car parts place. There are somewhat generic versions out there. If you’re buying a new one, don’t order one for a Mercedes or anything! Something from a cheap, locally made car, or something imported from somewhere like Korea (Kia, Daewoo etc) will be cheaper!
And thanks Bob, my setup is working impeccably for the last few weeks.
Good luck,
Leon
Just wanted to say that I set my automatic door system up in fall and echoing Leon, it’s worked impeccably through the bitter winter here. What a lifesaver to not have to run out in the cold and dark morning to let the girls out. Thanks.
Mary
This looks great and I definitely want to build it. Question on the Intermatic ST01C… could I do the same with a less expensive battery powered timer? Also, I know nothing about electronics. Could you post pictures of the wiring setup for the ST01C and a list of parts I need from Radio Shack? Thanks in advance…
Hi Marty,
Not sure how the other timers work. If the timer you find is a 12V timer, then it can me made to work. But if the timer is not a 12V timer, then it will only work if that the timer would be able to switch a device (in this case the antenna sensor wire) on and off WITHOUT involving the timer’s own operating voltage. What we call in electronics, “a dry switching contact”. I hope that made sense?
The STO1C is a bit costly, but the $30.00 or so is well worth the investment. What fascinates me the most is the “astronomic” feature which updates the internal clock when dusk and dawn occurs in your region.
If you click on “older posts” near the bottom of this page, you can find Chris and I talking about how to connect the device. It is very simple. If it still confuses you, let me know and I will take the time and draw a diagram and post it.
Good luck,
Bob
Sorry for the grammatical errors. I was typing to fast!
Sorry, I’m having a hard time with this. I have the antenna, battery and ST01C timer. If it’s not too much trouble could you send me the diagram? I really appreciate it. Do I need any other parts? Thank you again for your help.
You should not need any other parts, unless you encounter a problem with the timer resetting itself back to default programing. Then you would need an RF choke. But wait and see how it works first.
Email me direct at galaxyflyer1@yahoo.com
Then I will send you a diagram. I would post it here but I do not have the time right now to set up a link to show an image.
Bob
Hey folks,
Just a heads-up about a problem I’ve encountered with my car antenna driven chicken door. I found the battery (a 12V 7Ah SLA) went flat a couple of times recently. Turns out that when the antenna is in the fully extended position it draws a constant 200mA of current. When it’s pulled down closed there’s no current draw I can measure. With the way I had my antenna rigged to open the sliding door, it meant it was fully extended all night long and as the nights have got longer (I’m in southern hemisphere) lately, the battery was being drained by the 200mA bleeding out of it all night long. One night of darkness would be about 2Ah of capacity lost and my 5W solar panel wasn’t able to replace all this lost charge if we had a cloudy day or two.
I thought about using the timer to switch the power on and off to both the sense wire and the power lead, but it seemed easier to just turn the antenna upside down so that now it’s sitting the same way up as in a car, and is extended – and thus drawing 200mA – only during the day when the battery is at least getting some charge to balance the drain, and the days, in winter when the solar panel produces less power, are shorter. In summer when the days are longer the solar panel should be able to keep well ahead of the drain. But it’s a close thing. The panel is rated as 5W and ~0.3A of current. So the 0.2A of drain isn’t much less.
If your antenna is like mine and draws significant current when up, you might want to go for a 10W rather than a 5W panel.
Cheers,
Hey Leon,
I just performed a bench test with a spare antenna. When this antenna’s motor is in motion up or down, it draws about 360 MA, then 0 when it has reached it’s end in either direction. When metering the trigger lead ONLY, it does not draw anything until it is given 12V to make the antenna move out. And there it continues to draw 50 MA. It is the relay’s coil inside that is drawing this current.
Not sure why yours pulls as much as 200 MA in the up idle postion. Something does not sound right. In any case, the drain should only be coming from the trigger circuit, not the motor when it is idle (up or down).
Bob
I hope someone can help me. I have an antenna motor that has 3 wires but they are white, gray and green. Can someone please help with how to wire to battery? Thank you for any help.
Hi Maury,
Wow, you got me. Do you have a multi-meter to check resistance/continuity? That way I could help you determine the wiring.
Bob
Maury,
I’d suggest the experimental approach. I haven’t been able to kill my antenna by applying reverse polarity (to see if it would operate in the opposite direction when the signal wire was given 12V). So, attach the antenna to something solid so it doesn’t run away from you and then start trying combinations.
You want it to extend when two wires are on one terminal of the battery and the third wire on the other terminal. And then retract when you remove one of the two wires from the terminal with two wires on it. That wire you took off is the sense wire, the others are positive and negative power supply.
Have fun!
Leon
Thanks so much for a great post! I am building a chicken tractor and wanted to make a mobile version of your opener. You mention the ST10 Timer as not needing household current. I could not find that in their spec. sheet. Do know that it will run on 12 volts?
Thanks again!!!
Hello,
So as I enter the community looking for a solution to the predator problem I’ve just ordered a cheap 3-wire automatic car antenna. I’m planning just to hook this up to a lamp timer and an extension cord out to the coop. I don’t mind resetting the timer manually every so often. Every seems to be using batteries – so would I need to convert AC to DC somewhere? I can build stuff but electricity is not my strong suit. Also how do I connect the antenna to the timer – if the antennae has three wires and the timer only takes a two-prong male cord what do I do with the third wire?
Thanks so much for offering this solution free online! I’ve seen the hunger of coons and this will help so much.
Matt
As an addendum – I just reviewed older posts and was trying to follow links to power converters needed in order to run the antenna on an AC lamp timer. The links were no longer working – can someone recommend a current site that would have the apparently two items needed? Someone named Mary was looking into this awhile ago, I wonder if she finally solved it. For me this might be cheaper than getting a car battery set up.
Thanks!
Matt
Hi Scott,
The ST01C definitely can switch a 12V load. And the only power it needs to keep the clock/calendar and do the switching is from a lithium battery (not rechargeable) that is housed within it.
Leon
Hi Matt,
Seems like one of us should put in a bit of effort and post some more photos and circuit diagrams.
If you’re going the AC setup you’ll need two transformers (plug-packs), one that is constantly on, supplying positive and negative at 12V DC to the antenna at say 1Amp nominal rating, and a second 12V DC supply at very low amperage (100mA would be more than enough) which is switched on and off by your mains (lamp) timer supplying the 12V signal voltage to the sense wire of the antenna.
I didn’t really want mains AC running across my yard, so after setting up something like this initially I’ve gradually switched across first to mains-charged battery power and then to solar charged battery power.
Good luck!
Leon
Just thought I would chime in too;
Hi Scott,
As Leon mentioned, the ST01C does not require any other voltage to operate it other than the internal lithium battery. Pretty neat device!
And Matt,
Yes, I agree with Leon.
Matt,
I WAS able to get this setup working just as Leon outlined it. I liked it so much that when I built another coop this spring I used the same setup again. I was able to find the transformers at Salvation Army! People discard them all the time. Just look for the a/c to d/c with the correct volts and you’re set for just a dollar or so each. Eventually I’ll look into a battery or solar power, but the extension cord works just fine for now.
Good luck.
Mary
Leon-
That works – Thanks again!
Thanks for your replies, Leon, Bob, and Mary. I’ll definitely check local thrift for these transformers. But for the interest of spreading a potential supplier I found http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/category/815/Wall-Transformers/1.html.
They appear to have a wide selection – is there a problem with ordering two transformers that go up to a full amp, and what are issues I might run into if the output voltage isn’t all the way up to 12VDC? Just curious. And I am assuming 120 VAC is pretty standard.
I’m going the electric route since I’ll need lights out at the coop anyway during the long pacific northwest nights and I don’t think solar will be able to keep up. So I’ll run a circuit out there and have both lights and the door operation (on different timers).
I’ve also thought about a door closer/opener that uses city water pressure and two irrigation timers. You attach a bucket to a swing arm which fills at a certain night time (there is a hose running to it) which then falls to cover the door, within a chute of some kind. A second timer attached to the bucket opens and drains by gravity at a certain morning time and resets the gizmo. Similar to an automatic chicken feeder/waterer I once built to run on city water pressure and a single timer, can share that idea as well with any interested!
Thanks everyone for your help,
Matt
OK took Mary’s advice, Goodwill indeed has tons of these transformers – if I understand this correctly anything that recharges any battery operated device from a house outlet is a transformer. Cell phone chargers don’t put out enough voltage although there were many of those. So I now have a drill charger that puts out 12.5 v and 200mA for the trigger, and I have a PC charger that puts out 18.5 v and 3.5 A for the antenna up and down. Not exactly what Leon recommended, but voltage and amperage numbers are at least too high and not too low? My antenna hasn’t come in the mail yet so I’ll have to wait to test this out.
Talk to you soon,
Matt
Question for Mary –
would you mind letting me know exactly what the output is of the two transformers you successfully are using? I have everything hooked up but no go-
Thank you,
Matt
Hi Matt.
I used a 12VDC 500mA transformer for the green wire and a 12VDC 4 Amp for the positive. I’m sure the guys who know much more about electrical wiring on here can help you better, but be sure the transformers are A/C to D/C. Good luck.
Thanks Mary for your specs – update is that the antennae works on my car but can’t get it to work off of AC. I appear to have enough amperage and voltage by Leon’s suggestion, I have a drill charger that puts out 12.5 v and 200mA for the trigger, and I have a PC charger that puts out 18.5 v and 3.5 A for the antenna up and down.
Is it an issue if the PC charger puts out too many volts?
Since I bought these secondhand I can’t vouch for their actual output.
I can buy a multimeter and check both the output volts and the output amperage, right? Just connect the red and black leads to corresponding transformer output wires? I should also be able to check what my car radio is sending the antennae unit by the same process and see how they match up.
Thanks all
Hi Matt,
AC will not work.
The source for your trigger sounds fine.
18.5V is a bit on the high side but it may be OK. I know that a car battery is actually around 13.8 V and when the alternator is charging, it is a few volts higher than that. So there is no need to check the output of your car radio. If the 18.5V will be an issue, you probably won’t find out until after a short while because it will work, but the longevity of the motor may be at risk.
A multi meter is always a good tool to have around the house. You can find them at Harbor freight tools for about $5.00. You do not need anything fancy, though a digital readout is easier to read than an analog scale.
Bob
oh woe
I was feeling smart and got the antennae to work – but while testing it with the timer it somehow got stuck and burned out. There is an in-line fuse but still it burned out the fuse did not blow. The 1 amp main power transformer got very hot and the housing of the antennae motor melted a bit. It extended as planned, but then I was doing something else and it must have gotten hung up somehow while trying to retract.
Anybody know why this would happen? Do I need an actual hunk of metal for the ground, I just had the 3 wires twisted together (antenna ground, trigger ground, and main hot wire ground). That’s the only thing I can think of. Or – I had the 1 amp transformer power hooked up continuously to the antenna (red wire) – should both the red wire and the trigger wire be connected to the lamp timer?
Suggestions would be great. I’m not ready to give up but before I burn out another motor I want to have an idea of what happened.
Or maybe I just have a crappy antenna? Was 3-wire but “absolute” brand. If you are having good luck with a certain brand please let me know
Thanks
Matt
You are correct with having the 3 common (ground) wires all together. The only transformer that should be on the timer is the trigger. The other should always be on. So I think it sounds like you did all this correctly.
What is the voltage on the 1 amp main? Are you sure it is DC?
It sounds like the system worked before you connected the timer, is that right? If so, what were you doing for the test?
I have a few “no name” antennas with no problems.
Bob
Also, are you SURE about which of the wires on the transformers are actually positive and negative?
Thanks for the comments Bob –
The voltage for the 1 amp main was 12VDC, it says on the unit itself and I was able to verify the voltage with a multi-tester.
For testing the unit I had it all connected with only the trigger routed through the lamp timer and was using the manual toggle on/off on the side of the rotary timer to activate the antennae to extend and retract. Thinking “eureka!” I then set the timer to have the unit extend at 10am and retract at 11am. Not realizing there could be more problems I went about other chores and came back at 11:30 puzzled as to why it had extended but not retracted. I then realized the heat of the 1 amp transformer and the heat on the antennae motor, and the smell of the motor as well indicated the problem. My wife thinks it got stuck trying to retract since it was in a horizontal position but I would think the motor would just time out, not burn out.
I am not positive I had positive and negative hooked up correctly other than having the unit extend and retract with the manual on/off switch on the timer itself. I had it connected opposite before that and it did not work. On both transformer outputs there is tiny writing printed in white on the black plastic housing that I ultimately connected as negative, and a dashed white stripe printed on the wires I ultimately connected as positive, perhaps this is some sort of convention with wiring manuf.
Thank you for your thoughts! I’m totally obsessed now and not likely to give up until I figure this out. I’ll start another blog soon for chicken door anonymous 12 roost program.
Matt
Hi Everyone,
I am in Melbourne, Australia and i want to try and install the antenna chicken door. I was wondering when you say
” Two wires connect directly to your power source. The other wire that is not black or red, is the “up down†trigger. That is the wire that you connect to the timer or sensor circuit.
This has confused me
I plan to have a transformer going from a timer that is being powered by the mains supply to the antenna. This will power the transformer on and off at my chosen times. The transformer will power the antenna. Where will i connect the up down or trigger wire??
Any help would be fantastic.
Cheers Gary
Hi Gary,
Reread my post on June 1, 2010 at 9:42 pm in answer to Scott.
Timer is for low amperage power pack connected to signal wire and ground (negative/black most likely).
A second timer could be added for the 12V >= 1A power pack (that powers the antenna motor itself if you wanted to switch off it’s “transformer hum” energy usage (not much)), but is not necessary.
This (very much optional) second timer would have to be set to switch on and off before and after the times for the signal wire timer. And if they didn’t turn at the exact same speed they’d need occasional resynchronising. Do this later, if you’re keen! Start simple.
Leon
Hi Gary,
Let me explain,
†Two wires connect directly to your power source. The other wire that is not black or red, is the “up down†trigger. That is the wire that you connect to the timer or sensor circuit.”
Any wire on the antenna that is not red or black, is most likely the trigger wire. Sometimes the trigger wire is either blue, green,yellow,etc. But never red or black. (that I have seen)
You will need TWO 12 VOLT DC transformers. One transformer that is ALWAYS on. This transformer should be at least 1amp (1000ma) or higher.
The second transformer plugs into the timer and can be any AMP rating. It takes very little current (amps) to power the trigger.
You need to connect both negative transformer wires together. Then connect the black antenna wire to these two negative wires. (all three together).
Then the rest should make sense. One “power wire” and one “trigger wire” left to connect.
Good luck,
Bob
Thanks for the reply guys,
Could i just have the antenna hooked straight up to one transformer and then when it powers on it opens and then when the power is cut (at night) the door closes.
Just like when you start your car ignition the antenna opens and then when you turn the ignition off the antenna closes.
Would there be a problem with burning out the motor on the antenna?
Thanks for your help,
Gary
Gary,
The antenna on your car always has voltage on it. It is the trigger wire that is turned on and off via the ignition switch and or radio power knob. Let me help you understand the circuitry of an automatic antenna.
A common misunderstanding is that one could take the trigger wire and the red 12v motor wire and twist them together. Then connecting them to one transformer that is plugged into your timer.
If you did it this way, the first time the timer comes on, you would see the antenna extend. Ya!
(motor gets 12v, trigger wire gets 12v and the antenna extends).
BUT, now the timer turns off. The trigger wire and the red motor wire get zero voltage. The motor no longer has any voltage. Therefore, it has no power to retract.
The antenna needs a constant 12v so that the motor can react to the command of the trigger circuit.
Hope this helps you.
Bob
Thanks Bob for the info.
I will now try and put something together.
Is there a video of your system in action?
Thanks again.
Gary
Hi all.
I am in Australia and last night I lost 2 of my chooks to a fox. So now im looking foa a way to shut them in at night automatically.
After looking online I cant find a Intermatic ST01C timer for sale in Australia. So unless someone has found them in Australia and can share a link with me I will have to buy one in the USA and have it posted – expensive 🙁
Can someone please explain how the auto timer ajustment works on the Intermatic ST01C timer? Do you enter your latitude into the settings so that it knows where you are located?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Hamish
Hi Hamish,
Sorry about your chooks. I guess those are chickens?
I’m looking at my timer’s manual and it only shows a picture of the U.S. indicating north, center and south zones. I would assume that this unit can only be configured for the U.S. daylight calibrations. I never even thought about it. 🙁
Hopefully you have main electrical nearby to use a traditional appliance / light timer?
Bob
Hi Hamish,
I’m in Australia too. Couldn’t find a local retailer for the ST01C so I went via ebay and it wasn’t too bad considering the virtues of this device. Yes, it does only offer a latitude adjustment for the US zones Bob described, but it can still be made to work. Just set it to the US zone which has the most similar north latitude to your south latitude, then set the calendar exactly six months forwards or backwards (to invert the seasons for the southern hemisphere).
Would be nice if Intermatic would think a bit more worldwide in their designs, but we can make do!
Cheers,
Leon
Leon, You are a smart man! 🙂
Thanks for the comments Leon and Bob.
Hi there
I’m also in Australia (lol) and plan to use a mains power source.
I was wondering if a “LED Driver Power Supply Transformer 220-240V to DC 12V” advertised on Ebay would work? (they are less than $10 including postage)
Thanks in advance
Peter