I’ve been fascinated with automatic chicken coop doors. My current auto coop door closer has been working like a champ for months. I received a lot of great replies to that thread, and one of them was from a visitor named Bob. I was so impressed with his design and pictures I asked him if I could post his comments and pictures as an article here. I’m SUPER glad he agreed. So, below are his words:
Here is the automatic door I built with an automatic car antenna (click the image to see it in action). I chose the antenna method because it has a built in stop when it reaches its end in both directions. This eliminates the need of more circuitry to control â€œrun timeâ€.
Mine runs off a little 12v lawn tractor battery. The battery is kept up to charge with a â€œfloatâ€ charger. The door opens and closes with a photo light sensor. The reason for the battery is so that a power failure will not cause a problem. The reason for the light sensor is so that the length of daylight does not need to be constantly adjusted on a timer. BUT, you can simplify things and use an ordinary appliance timer plugged into an AC outlet, and then use a 12v DC power supply to power the antenna.
This is just one way to use an automatic car antenna. With some imagination you could probably come up with many more designs.
As you can see the antenna is mounted upside down. The door is made from an 1\8â€³ ALUMINUM panel. It is light in weight but very strong. The door channels are 1/4â€³. I have a 3â€³ spacer connected to the tip of the antenna to the door. You can measure the distance you need to determine the spacing length. I used a piece of aluminum stock and tapped each side to mount it. The side on the antenna tip has a hole for the tip to set in, and then I used the tapped hole as a â€œset screwâ€ to keep the tip in place. I have my tip connected towards the bottom of the door. This makes the length of the door channel a bit shorter in order to match the up and down stroke of the antenna.
Be sure to carefully measure the lengths and travel distances needed for the antenna to move up and down freely. I have heard of some discussion that the travel distance does not need to be exact because the antennaâ€™s â€œauto stopâ€ feature will sense the end travel and the motor will time out. But that will be up to you.
If you do not have some aluminum sheeting lying around, you can find some at Loweâ€™s or etc. Aluminum can be easily cut with your skill saw. Just make sure you have a carbide blade and wear safety goggles. Even some type of plastic sheet would work. Just keep it light and strong.
The door channels can be purchased also at Loweâ€™s or Home Depot.
The best price for the antenna was on-line at Beachaudio.com, but they may be out of stock. Just search the web for the least expensive â€œautomatic antennaâ€. Mine was about $35.00. The antenna MUST only have three wires. (Beware of the non automatic antennas that require the user to â€œtoggleâ€ the antenna up and down manually). Two wires connect directly to your power source. The other wire that is not black or red, is the â€œup downâ€ trigger. That is the wire that you connect to the timer or sensor circuit.
If you go with the 12V battery, the float charger can be bought at Harbor Freight Tools for under $10.00.
I have updated this article to mention that the there may be a better control system other than the night/daylight sensor that is described below. I have used this sensor for about a year. However, just recently I noticed that the control unit was sometimes â€œconfusedâ€ in the mornings and would make the antenna move up and down erratically. Not fun for the chickens. It was mainly due to setting the photocell too sensitive in order to stay open at night as long as possible. Please be sure to read the later posts regarding an Intermatic ST01C timer. This timer is very unique because it does not rely on household current to operate. It is also very unique because it has an â€œastronomicalâ€ feature which updates the internal clock when dusk and dawn occurs in your region. It is powered by a 2 year lithium battery. Below is the night/daylight photocell circuit, if you decide to want to experiment with it.
Here is the circuit. Its pretty simple and self explanatory and would require someone that has done a little soldering in the past.
The only thing that is really not explained is the CDS photocell. One could try different types to see which works best. The one I ended up using was from a photocell variety package purchased from Radio Shack.
If you decide to go with the photocell circuit, the antennaâ€™s power wires (red and black) must be always connected to the 12vdc power source and not be controlled by the photocell circuit.
A few thumbnails you can click on for the control box, door channel, battery / charger, photocell
On the other side of the box I have a little slider switch that makes the door close manually.
The tip spacer/connector will probably be the hardest part for a lot of people to figure out to. There plenty of ways to get that done. I had a piece of an aluminum rod that was solid. I drilled and tapped each side of it. There is a screw going through the outside of the door to one side of the rod. I drilled a hole in the rod for the antenna tip to sit in. The screw on that side of the rod is a set screw that keeps the tip in place.
(Rob Note: A huge thanks to Bob for this great design, pics and wrtieup and for letting me post it on the site. I know we are both looking forward to reading some of your comments!)
258 thoughts on “Auto Coop Door II – Antenna”
I’ll be out of town for a few days, but will try to figure out how to get the pics viewable. Good thing I got the auto chicken door!
can you show the required wiring for the antenna please? thank you.
Hi, I know this is an old thread, but was wondering if you could send me or post a close-up picture of where the antenna tip is connected to the metal rod which is connected to the door that slides up and down.
I would greatly appreciate it, since I am unable to visualize what you did.
Thank you very much,
I found your article very useful and are looking forward to installing the autistic door on my new coop.I going to cut a piece of old fishing rod for my spacer,hope it works.thanx
Just in case you were referring to my (now defunct – we moved & no longer have chooks), here is a link to a photo of a sketch of the tip of the antenna.
And I should have done this long ago but somehow seem not to have…
Here is a link to a pretty bad quality video showing my coop door in action, and some of the design. Hope it helps some of you.
Apologies to Arthur. Hope you worked it out.
My door closes when my antenna extends (it’s mounted upside down compared to automobile mounting).
I have a loop on my door that the antenna slides through. I slid the antenna through the loop and then added a hose clamp to the antenna tip to prevent it from fitting back the loop.
My coop has a low ceiling, so I built it so my antenna would continue to extend a few inches once my door was shut. When the antenna opens in the morning, it runs for a few inches before the antenna tip catches the loop to open the door.
Can you supply a more, “layman” style wiring diagram? Maybe with more detailed pictures? Thanks in advance
Hello all. This is Bob. I’m the one that created the use of the auto car antenna for the chicken door and wrote this article.
I’m very sorry that I have not been responding to the past posts. I have noticed that all updates have been going to my spam folder. I assumed that this thread was dead.
It’s been several years and my original setup with the Intermatic ST01C timer is working flawlessly (so far, knock on wood). If you check “older comments”, you will see many technical questions and answers.
Chickenraiser, which type diagram are you looking for? One with the use of a house appliance timer or with the Intermatic ST01C timer?
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