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Hello, I have an old PIXMA 6700D printhead that I would like to repair using this glue or similar:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/High-Temperatur … 3cc77e20d8
The problems is that yellow and cyan, or cyan an magenta inks mix together in the head after the printer is off for some time.
Otherwise the head was working when I last checked it. Now I use replacement head but would like to try and revive this one.
The only problem is to find a suitable glue.
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I guess you are going to re-glue the gasket inside the print head? I think the gasket is made from silicone rubber, so the glue might be suitable. Please report your results.
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PeterBJ wrote:
I guess you are going to re-glue the gasket inside the print head? I think the gasket is made from silicone rubber, so the glue might be suitable. Please report your results.
Yes I want to make a jig to hold the head, and ceramic plate so I can put it back the way it is now. Then I want to use glue to glue the silicone gasket to ceramic pad.
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I think no special jig is necessary, to position the gasket correctly, as it fits onto some small "tubes" in the upper plastic part of the print head. I would turn the upper plastic part upside down and place the gasket, then apply the glue to the gasket sparingly, and place the ceramic plate on top of the gasket and upper part of the print head and secure it with the screws. It might be a good idea to note the alignment of the ceramic plate to the upper print head part, before taking the print head apart.
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PeterBJ wrote:
I think no special jig is necessary. It might be a good idea to note the alignment of the ceramic plate to the upper print head part, before taking the print head apart.
That is exactly why I need a jig, the alignment is critical as the height of the ceramic part. I'm going to measure it with a caliper 0.01mm precise. The plastic posts you mention are not precise enough.
I think this glue will work better http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-x-CLEAR-ADHES … 5144f#shId
Is mentioned it is suitable for elastic parts, thin coats can be applied etc. But no temperature resistance mentioned 
I need to get a hold of some plexiglass so make the jig too.
Last edited by Smile (03/05/2013 11:26:05 am)
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I think you are right about the need for a jig. But I think that the first glue is most suitable as the gasket feels like silicone rubber. But I think the second glue is perfect for glueing polypropylene parts when making for instance a" Freedom Refill" adapter or a home made CISS system like the one built by aaa.
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The glue (in entry # 5) is a cyanoacrylate (from Ebay picture) and they in general work below 150 °C (300 °F).
Some of these types set extremely quickly, you have a second or so to position the parts.
I have tried a similar type and had to remove the glue mechanically and start all over.
That application was to glue PE plastic and plexiglass for a "gravity feed" refiller for PGI-9
cartridges.
If you have any questions concerning machining, grinding and polishing plexiglass don't
hesitate to ask me. Plexiglass is one of my favorite materials.
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Tandberg wrote:
The glue (in entry # 5) is a cyanoacrylate (from Ebay picture) and they in general work below 150 °C (300 °F).
Some of these types set extremely quickly, you have a second or so to position the parts.
I have tried a similar type and had to remove the glue mechanically and start all over.
That application was to glue PE plastic and plexiglass for a "gravity feed" refiller for PGI-9
cartridges.
If you have any questions concerning machining, grinding and polishing plexiglass don't
hesitate to ask me. Plexiglass is one of my favorite materials.
What happened to your gravity feed refiller ?
Can you give any details.. 
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The Hat wrote:
What happened to your gravity feed refiller ?
Can you give any details..
Basically it's a modified cap/gasket in a thick rectangular plexiglass part.
On top of the rectangle is a plexiglass tube, volume 20 ml. All the parts are
glued together. The gasket and tube thingy moves up/down and is springloaded
to compress the gasket. The center of the gasket is removed all the way out to
the two sealing ridges. Most of the sponge in the cartridge is visible from above.
I'm working on the interface between tube and the rest of the fixture right now.
If and when pictures exist I will start a new topic, it will be OT in this one.
When finished it will do the same as the dribble method but unattended.
(It's all 'orribly complicated, I do this as a test of some mashines in my workshop)
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Tandberg wrote:
If you have any questions concerning machining, grinding and polishing plexiglass don't
hesitate to ask me. Plexiglass is one of my favorite materials.
Do you have a CNC mill, lathe? Could you mill like aluminum 6060 T6, brass etc. What are your tolerances. And what are your prices?
It may sound strange but I'm struggling (for quite some time) to find anyone willing to make me parts at a decent price. For some other single piece parts I have ordered them in china, but their shipping is expensive half what it costs to make the parts, and they only ship with courier 
and wait bank transfer was another 35$ 
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