http://www.electronic-circuits-diagrams.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3520&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

I’ve also asked the designer to modify it for me to suit my ideas. I’ll post when I have a reply.

http://www.reuk.co.uk/Automatic-Hen-House-Door-Closer-Opener.htm

http://www.reuk.co.uk/Convert-Digital-Mains-Timer-To-Low-Voltage.htm

I’m still working on my door opener idea. I now think I might use and old cordless drill to spin some threaded rod. the door could be attached to this by some threaded nuts and sit on drawer type rollers. This way, when the drill spins the rod in one direction it can pull the door open, then push it closed.
I think this might be more reliable than the winch type arrangement, but will have to try it first.

Many thanks

chegchester@yahoo.co.uk

Thanks!

I expect you could add a timer, light sensitive circuit and manual overide. if anyone wants the schematic diagram let me know as I don’t seem able to post a picture.

“The motor is switched by two single pole change-over relays in an �H� arrangement. Normally, the two ends of the motor are connected to 0V. When one of other of the relays is energised, the motor will turn one way or the other.

IC1 is a 555 timer wired in a bistable mode circuit. When IC1 is triggered, it switches on REL1. It is triggered �on� by taking TR to 0V, and reset to �off� by taking RES to 0V. When TR and RES are both at 12V, the IC stays in its last commanded state. IC2 is wired in an identical circuit.

This is how it operates. Assume the arm is at the top. The limit switch S4 was closed when the arm hit the top stop. The time switch has just put 12V on to the supply rails and the 555s are powered up.

The capacitors C1 will hold the TR pins low for a split second and IC1 will be triggered on. The same would apply to IC2, but it cannot be triggered on because S4 is closed, keeping it in its reset mode. REL 1 energises and S1 changes over and puts 12V on the LH side of the motor while S2 stays unchanged, so the RH side of the motor remains connected to 0V. The motor starts to run, taking the arm down. The limit switch S4 opens up but IC2 can�t trigger on because C1 has charged up via R1 to 12V, so TR is no longer at 0V.

The motor will continue to run until the arm is at the bottom. Then S3 will close and reset IC1. REL1 will de-energise, S1 will change over, and the motor will stop. There it will remain until the timer ends and the 12V supply to the 555s is disconnected.

Next time the timer comes on it will be IC2 that is triggered (IC1 cannot trigger because S3 is closed). REL2 energises and S2 changes over, turning the motor in the opposite direction. The arm will rise until the top limit switch, S4, closes and resets IC2. Then it will stop, ready for the next timed period. So now we are back at square one.”

Anyway, the thing ran flawlessly for about ten years and the only problems were when the power got shut off for some reason. Instead of having a guillotine type door, I used the regular door and put a pulley with weights on it. Then any latch will work. The guillotine design looks nice if you have the room above the entry. I suppose as along as you were at it, you could just reverse the process for the door opener. You’d have a second clutch with weights and pulleys and it would pull the door back up.

Ironically enough, I went outside this AM to let the girls out and the coop door was still in the up position. Not a chicken to be found! My heart started racing like CRAZY. I opened up the coop and there were no signs of struggle, no feathers strewn about (usually what we see when the coons get to our flock)… nothing! Just then, one chicken popped around the corner… then another, then the rest. PHEW!!!

We got lucky! I did a closer inspection of the closer. I first suspected that the pin got hung up / stuck on the ring again, but ever since I oiled / WD-40′d it, it hasn’t been a problem, and sure didn’t seem to be the issue this time. I was puzzled… well, until I saw one of my wire leads dangling from my contraption.

I’ve been using alligator clips and quick connectors this whole time. They (like the 6 year old coop) were suppose to be temporary until I got the kinks worked out, but like many other things in my busy life, I tend not to fix it if it ain’t broke.

So, on my todo list is to get rid of as many fail points in the wiring as possible with a bit of soldering and permanent connections.

I’m so glad the coons weren’t on the hunt in our yard last night… we got really lucky!

Of course, I stick to my previous statements that while there are potential points of failure in a system like this, either mechanical or false sense of security, it is still better than the alternative: my family trying to always be home and always remember to lock up the girls at night without fail.